In the traditional halls of Swiss horology, success is often measured by preservation. Brands refine the circle, shave millimeters off case profiles, and perfect dive watches first designed in the 1950s.
Then, there is Maximilian Büsser.
To understand the MB&F HM10 Bulldog, you must first understand its creator—and the deliberate rejection of everything that defines mainstream watchmaking. MB&F is not a watch brand in the traditional sense. It is a horological laboratory, a creative refuge for ideas that have no place in corporate boardrooms or heritage committees.
The HM10 Bulldog is not merely a playful object. It is a case study in how modern mechanical watchmaking evolves once precision is no longer the goal—and emotion becomes the mission.
From Corporate Power to Creative Freedom
Before MB&F, Max Büsser spent over a decade at Harry Winston, where he pioneered the now-legendary Opus series. Those collaborations—with the world’s most gifted independent watchmakers—proved something radical: the future of haute horology would not be driven by scale, but by collaboration and courage.
By 2005, Büsser understood that the industry’s obsession with “heritage” was quietly suffocating creativity. His response was MB&F: Maximilian Büsser & Friends. Not a maison. Not a manufacture. A lab.
Instead of CEOs, MB&F has a Creative Director. Instead of in-house isolation, it invites the best minds in watchmaking—names like Kari Voutilainen and Stephen McDonnell—to build kinetic sculptures that happen to tell time. MB&F doesn’t design for the market; it designs for the soul.
After the Quartz Crisis: Why Aesthetics Became the New Frontier
Historically, a mechanical watch earned its value through precision. The Quartz Crisis of the 1970s ended that competition permanently. When mass-produced quartz could outperform any mechanical movement, survival demanded reinvention.
MB&F was one of the first brands to fully accept a difficult truth: Mechanical watches are no longer instruments—they are art forms.
In the HM10 Bulldog, the most important part of the movement—the balance wheel—is no longer hidden. A massive 14mm balance floats above the dial, fully exposed, oscillating like a living engine. This is not subtle; it is intentional. The watch doesn’t ask you to admire time; it asks you to watch energy exist.
HM10 Bulldog: When a Machine Becomes a Character
Released in 2020, the HM10 Bulldog is perhaps MB&F’s most literal expression of mechanical personality. It moves beyond "features" into the realm of anatomy.
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The “Pup” Concept: A Grade 5 titanium case sculpted into a bulldog’s form.
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The Eyes: Two rotating aluminum domes displaying hours and minutes.
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The Mouth: A functional power reserve indicator—wide open when fully wound, slowly closing as energy depletes.
This is not novelty design; it is intuitive mechanical storytelling.
The Wearability Paradox
On paper, the dimensions are intimidating: 54mm in length and 24mm in height. Yet, as we explored in our hands-on review, the four articulating “legs” (lugs) allow the watch to wrap around the wrist naturally. Even on a 6.2-inch wrist, the Bulldog sits with surprising balance. This reflects a critical MB&F principle: Bold design does not excuse poor ergonomics.
Serious Watchmaking Beneath the Whimsy
Behind the playful exterior lies a movement of uncompromising seriousness. The manual-wind caliber contains over 300 components, finished to standards that rival the most conservative maisons:
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Ruthenium-plated bridges for modern, industrial contrast.
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Hand-polished internal bevels, including areas invisible once the case is assembled.
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Technical Bravery: Finishing choices made not for the camera, but for the integrity of the craft.
Why “Bonkers” Design Often Becomes Iconic
The luxury industry teaches us that the “safe” choice rarely becomes the legendary one. History reminds us that Paul Newman Daytonas were once considered "failures" because they were too radical.
The HM10 Bulldog is an anti-people pleaser. It does not exist to fit into a collection; it exists to challenge one. For the seasoned collector, this is the final frontier: buying not for validation, resale charts, or social approval—but for personal conviction. Owning an MB&F is a quiet declaration: I no longer need my watch to explain itself.
Where the HM10 Fits in a Serious Collection
The HM10 Bulldog is not a first watch. It is not a “daily.” It is a punctuation mark.
It belongs in collections that already understand Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet—and are ready to move beyond them. MB&F’s existence is a win for the entire industry. It proves that mechanical watchmaking still has room to evolve, provoke, and surprise—even in an era dominated by safe iterations.
Final Thought The MB&F HM10 Bulldog isn’t designed to fit in. It’s designed to remind us why independent watchmaking matters. In a world of refinement and repetition, MB&F chose rebellion—and in doing so, created one of the most honest expressions of modern horology.
Explore our curated selection of preowned and new timepieces find the icon that enriches your collection.
Watch Our Full Video
For a detailed look at the craftsmanship and feel of these exquisite watches, be sure to watch the full video review below.
