Omega Speedmasters: 3861 White Dial vs. Caliber 321 Ed White - The Bat

The Omega Speedmaster is perhaps the most celebrated sports watch in history, thanks to its selection by NASA in 1964 and its subsequent use on the moon. Today, the Speedmaster line has splintered, offering versions that cater to nearly every collector preference.

This week, we pit two of the most desirable recent releases against each other: the standard-production, tech-forward Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch White Dial (Caliber 3861) and the highly exclusive, historically sacred Speedmaster “Ed White” (Caliber 321). Do they stack up as rivals, or are they designed to appeal to two entirely different collectors?

The Common Thread: A Legacy Forged in Space

The Speedmaster was originally launched in 1957 as a racing chronograph, designed for timing on the track. Its destiny changed dramatically when it was selected by NASA, following grueling trials, to be the official watch for its astronauts. The watch earned its "Moonwatch" moniker after Buzz Aldrin wore it on the lunar surface during the 1969 Apollo 11 mission.

Crucially, the "Ed White" Caliber 321 pays homage to an equally pivotal moment: the 1965 Gemini IV mission, where astronaut Ed White wore an earlier version of the Speedmaster during the first American spacewalk, solidifying the watch's space journey.

Speedmaster Professional (White Dial 3861): The Future of the Moonwatch

The White Dial Speedmaster Professional (Ref. 310.30.42.50.04.001) is Omega’s vision for the modern icon. While it retains the 42mm case and classic twisted "lyre" lugs of the classic Moonwatch, its appeal lies in its technical advancements and eye-catching aesthetic shift.

Aesthetics and Comfort

The porcelain-like white dial is the most striking feature, offering a clean, high-contrast look enhanced by black indications and a subtle red splash on the chronograph hand and "Speedmaster" text. It feels like an alternative—not a replacement—for the traditional black.

Under the hood, the modern version shines:

Feature	Detail	Impact for the Modern Collector
Movement	Manual-winding Caliber 3861	The ultimate evolution of the Moonwatch movement.
Certification	METAS Master Chronometer	Superior accuracy and resistance to magnetism up to 15,000 Gauss.
Hacking	Yes	Allows for precise time setting by stopping the seconds hand.
Bracelet	Modern bracelet with Micro-Adjustment Clasp	Highly praised for comfort and easy, tool-free sizing adjustments.
Robustness	50 meters Water Resistance	A reliable daily wearer, protected against splashes and rain.

Speedmaster “Ed White” (Caliber 321): Pure Heritage Horology

The “Ed White” Caliber 321 (Ref. 311.30.40.30.01.001) is a different beast entirely. It’s not just a tribute; it is a meticulous recreation of the watch that first flew in space, and it represents Omega's foray into haute horlogerie—high-end watchmaking.

Exclusivity and Craftsmanship

This watch is defined by its movement: the legendary Caliber 321. This column-wheel chronograph movement, the original caliber that passed the NASA tests, is built today with a level of exclusivity that drives its demand and price:

Each movement is assembled twice by one dedicated master watchmaker.
Service can only be performed by this same small, specialized team.
The bridges are plated with beautiful Sedna gold, visible through the sapphire caseback.

Vintage Dimensions

The "Ed White" features the original, more compact dimensions: a 39.7mm case with straight lugs and exposed crown/pushers (in contrast to the Professional’s lyre lugs). This results in a cleaner, more historically accurate silhouette. Its neo-vintage details include a galvanized step dial, warm-toned faux patina Super-LumiNova, and a premium polished black ceramic bezel with a white enamel tachymeter scale (a modern upgrade over the original aluminum).

The Verdict: Rivals or Complements?

The difference in price and availability clearly shows that these watches are not competitors, but rather complementary offerings for different buyers.

Feature	White Dial Professional (Cal. 3861)	Ed White (Caliber 321)
Core Philosophy	Modernity, Technology, Utility	Heritage, Exclusivity, Craftsmanship
Case Diameter	42 mm (Lyre Lugs)	39.7 mm (Straight Lugs)
Movement Type	Caliber 3861 (METAS, Co-Axial)	Caliber 321 (Original, Hand-Assembled, Column Wheel)
Hacking Seconds	Yes	No (True to vintage design)
Availability	Standard Production (Easily Available)	Extremely Limited Production (Long Waiting List)
Retail Price (Approx.)	~$7,000 – $8,000 USD	~$14,100 USD (Roughly double the price)

Who Should Choose Which?

Choose the White Dial 3861: If you want a daily-wear workhorse with modern benefits like magnetic resistance, a user-friendly micro-adjustment clasp, and the peace of mind of a Master Chronometer certification—all wrapped up in a fresh, attractive color palette.

Choose the Ed White 321: If you seek the most historically significant watch, appreciate traditional watchmaking techniques (column-wheel, non-hacking), and value the exclusivity and high-touch craftsmanship that comes with a price tag approaching high-end independent watchmaking.

Both watches carry the legendary history of the Speedmaster, but one is focused on the future of timekeeping, while the other is focused on the art of the past. They are two indispensable chapters in the same timeless book.